LOS AMANTES MEZCAL

Once It wasn’t that longago – about a decadeor two, at most – thatthe mere mention ofmezcal conjured up images of grungy-looking B. Traven-wannabes inseedy little cantinas in Oaxaca downingshots of agave rotgut and springbreakerbarroom daredevils testingtheir intestinal fortitude and sanityin sordid shacks on the squalid outskirtsof the Bajías de Huatulco.Not anymore.In the last 10 years, the once-grislycactus spirit that was generally categorizedas frat-party intoxicant has —with the help of a massive global mediacampaign — wormed its way intoa dramatic image makeover from bikerbooze to sophisticated urban spirit.In fact, in the last few years, mezcalhas increasingly been positionedinternationally as the new tequila –that is, a made-in-Mexico sip with asignature taste and appeal.(Although, technically speaking,tequila itself is a type of mezcal, madeexclusively from blue agave juice in acontrolled-origin denomination areaof the state of Guadalajara.)But unlike tequila, mezcal can beproduced in various states across theMexican countryside, and can be derivedfrom virtually any of the morethan 200 types of maguey cactus thatgrow nationwide (90 percent of whichare endemic to Mexico).“The main difference between tequilaand mezcal is basically that tequilais produced in industrial quantities,while mezcal is usually producedin small quantities with traditional,artisanal practices that date back topre-Columbian times,” explainedAlejandro Gil Martínez, brand managerfor Los Amantes, one of the firstnon-tequila agave distilled beveragesto be commercialized internationally,during last month’s Second AnnualMezcal Festival, a national celebrationof all things agave organized byLa Europea (Mexico’s premier distributorof fine wine and spirits).“We were essentially the firstmezcal company to break the iceand shatter the drink’s negative stereotypeby wiggling our way onto thetop shelves of upscale bars and restaurantsin New York City.”Gil Martínez went on to say that,10 years ago, most tiny mezcal producersfelt it was easier to first establisha foothold for their beverages inthe international marketplace thanin Mexico.“Once mezcal gained a high-endfollowing abroad, it was easier to convinceMexican consumers to look atthe drink in a different light.”Admittedly, Gil Martínez’ LosAmantes is not quite your typicalmezcal. Made exclusively from espadinagave (the only commercially cultivatedmezcal cactus besides blueagave and the most commonly used agave for mezcal production, found in 90 percent of mezcals currently on the market), Los Amantes is an extremely mild spirit (despite being 40 proof) and has no potentially offputting worm cadavers in the bottom of its bottle. Moreover, unlike most of its cousin mezcals from Oaxaca (ground zero for quality mezcal production), Los Amantes is not roasted over open wood fires (which tends to give the drink is telltale smoky taste), but rather over gas stoves. “Los Amantes is an easy-to-drink mezcal that can serve as an introduction to the wonderful world of mezcal for the unindoctrinated to sample,” Gil Martínez said.But for those who prefer their mezcal to taste like mezcal, instead of a lame, pseudo-tequila, there were plenty of other options at the La Europea festival, including a Los Amores silver ( joven) – also made in Oaxaca from espadin cactus but cooked over mesquite and pine fires in giant copper vats and triple distilled to 37 proof.